You have to test while the failure is present. The following three are the most common Chevy harmonic damper timing mark locations—but there have been other, "oddball" balancer locations over the years as well: - 1955 to 1968: Often forgotten, on early applications (including your pickup's original balancer) the timing mark nearly lines up with the crank keyway, about 2 degrees before the key centerline, or about 45 degrees visually off the "12-o'clock" (vertical) position when No. Im going to try to get a noid light asap and test foe pulse at my injectors. Let someone jump his car, and he unhooked the cables and metal touched end of cables, when they were still hooked to my batt. Thank you for the info. Chevy 350 Cranks but No Start Problem. Im in a really tough spot right now and i have to fix this.
I am new to the forum and I have a very frustrating issue with my 88 350 TBI. A battery can show 12 - 14 volts but fail a load test and numerous other issues can cause either symptom. I think i fixed the issue!!! Rotate the housing as needed to achieve line-up—counterclockwise for more advance; clockwise to retard.
Thank you received: 6. Sometimes problems are smaller than they appear to be. Computerized engines need numerous signals to run properly. Hopefully this will have all the "expendables" replaced/upgraded. Without enough pressure behind them, the injectors can't produce the normal spray pattern they should.
Spark/ old bad wires, plugs, cap etc. I've been having the same issues on my 99 gmc, once or twice a month and it starts great the rest of the time, no one can find the issue. Chevy Truck Fuel At TBI - No Start. Remember to check for a spark at the spark plugs using a Phillips head screw driver. Must be a fuel problem, right? Also, replace the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, & rotor as well as fuel filter (relatively cheap plus it's normal maintenance) before dropping the fuel tank and replacing the fuel pump. The intermittent no start component failure was traced to the ignition control module located in the base of the distributor (WHEN THE ENGINE HEATS UP THE MODULE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IT FAILS TO START THE VEHICLE). Check exhaust as well.
Last edit: 26 Jun 2017 17:57 by popoften. And I know engine is still good. Back in the day, many original GM passenger-car cam sprockets had (believe it or not) a nylon-tooth cam sprocket. 03 Jul 2017 20:57 - 03 Jul 2017 20:58 #10829 by Tyler. 87 Suburban won't start after cap and rotor change. You need to hear a click from the engine bay load center when you turn the key on. Hello so im dealing with a crank no start issue that is really confusing me and I would love some input. They changed the flex plate and starter and cleaned some wire terminals.. all good now and fires right up like a brand new vehicle. The key is turned on engine not cranking relay applied for 2 to 20 seconds (most trucks 2 seconds), depending on emissions equipment. I also tried starter fuel down the throttle.
7 litter, it cranks but won't start it does have spark in coil, but No spark in #1 sparplug I put new distributor and new coil new sparplugs, new plug wires, checked out fuses there all good, does anyone know if it can be the Timming belt? If you have no voltage at the starter, move to the relay and then to the ignition switch and safety switch. However if the fuel pressure is tested at 5-10 psi low, and the test is done correctly, and measurement equipment is accurate, suggest to not discount low fuel pressure entirely as the cause of the cranks but won't start. 5.7 tbi cranks but wont start guide. The fuel pressure is tested by using fittings to Tee in a pressure gauge.
To a technician, it just means that the starter is successfully engaging the flywheel and rotating the engine's crankshaft. It is pretty standard procedure to replace the rear main crank seal on the engine anytime the transmission is removed, so if the area under the bell housing is where you trace your oil leak to, its most likely the rear crankshaft seal located behind the flex plate. Turn the key on, climb under, and bang on it. I'm starting to wonder honestly. I did see someone post on another forum that the 5. Get it back and shifting is worse.. transmission fluid looks ok. Oil level is fine and oil pressure gauge is between 25-50psi. Get a new control module keep it in the glove box with a, I believe, 1\4 inch nut driver. In a points/breaker ignition, an arm on a spring rides against a cam and opens and closes the primary circuit to the coil. I have a 1990 GMC half ton. Whistles while you work: An inexpensive TDC whistle or even 3 feet of flexible common 3/8-inch rubber fuel-line hose pushed into the No. My battery is the side screw terminals with no visible signs of corrosion. Engine cranks but does not start. Some timing tabs bolt to the timing cover; some are welded to the cover. All fuses look good.
Oil pressure is ok but apparently still leaking oil (which I know isnt the transmission and they said the engine is fine) They said they don't know where to get a transmission for it. Next, make sure the accelerator/power pump is working and the carburetor float bowls are getting gas. Starter is missing heat shield. Though not burned all the way through. You'd need a lab o'scope however to determine that the pulse length was correct. Fuel pump relay was the problem.. New relay and all seems well BUT I am noticing the relay seems to be hot. The test results from these stores are not always accurate, and some times the will say the module is good when it is not, but for a free test that may find the problem it is worth a try. As far as I can tell the only thing leaking is oil. I don't know the year GM started installing them, but if the engine stops, will turn over, but won't crank, it could be the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. 5.7 tbi cranks but wont start engine. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I drive for a bit then shut it off, then not long after go again and as soon as I put it in gear it stalls.
RE- K3500 What year is your vehicle? He's spending all my money and his time trying to fix this and it's not working. My battery isnt dead either. Shorting the battery by accidentally touching positive and negative together could ruin the battery or a fuse in the Fuse Block so if your headlights or horn do not fuse block is the first place to check.. We just had a hard tine starting a 1998 GMC SIERRA. Distributor rotor correctly oriented? You have to ask the computer if any error codes are present. Make sure it reads at least 12. 1 terminal's stock location may be on either side of the metal window. Jalcantar69 If your timing belt is broken. 2023 Honda CR-V vs. Toyota RAV4, Subaru Forester, Kia Sportage, Hyundai Tucson, Nissan Rogue, Mazda CX-5. I tried to start once again, now it turned over. Standard transmission or Automatic?
The driver-side fender skirt was the normal home of the Ford "Red" and "Blue" ignition modules. I do not the first time I took it to them I pointed out a few things I knew needed to be fixed and said to check all seals and gaskets which obviously they didn't do and I don't want to throw around accusations but I'm starting to wonder if they're just counting on me continuously taking it back to work not things that could've already been taken care of. A week later, same issue. If you have exhausted all other possibilities, remove the harmonic balancer and front cover to check the timing chain. Yes you do: I can't verify 100% over the web, but having owned and worked on several Chevy's, this is classic low fuel pressure / failing fuel pump symptoms on a Chevy fuel pump. 9-13 PSI with the engine running is what you're looking for. Needs to be verified if you run a spider or not. I have a 1992 GMC Sierra 5. My son was driving the truck and it was running fine.
The key dance that @asemaster suggested is also a good idea to test. I haven't seen any response addressing the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. Hopefully one of the better mechanical guys/gals will come on and give you some ideas. Join Date: Oct 2012. For the "System Field" select "Electrical Distribution" For the "Sub System" field select "Ground Distribution" Last but not least.... a worn or gummed up distributor could cause timing issues after warm up. I can get a pretty good look at the spray pattern with an LED flashlight, and the first few times it dripped a few tiny drips of fuel from the injectors when trying to start, but now I don't see any fuel when cranking. But all I can figure that could be relevant to the issues I'm having is that the vehicle sat for long periods of time and likely didn't receive much of the maintenance it should have had. Use a test light or multimeter to verify that the pump is being energized when you're trying to start the engine.
I agree it seems likely the fuel injectors arent getting pulse, im gonna try to rent a noid light today. 2) Fuel pressure is 30 lbs at the throttle body from the pump and fuel sprays strong from the injectors. Moisture retained inside it long after a rain. I am also thinking a bad crank sensor.